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Handbook of Museum Textiles

Volume 2: Scientific and Technological Research

Edited by Seiko Jose, Sabu Thomas, Pintu Pandit and Ritu Pandey
Copyright: 2023   |   Status: Published
ISBN: 9781119983385  |  Hardcover  |  
408 pages | 120 illustrations
Price: $195 USD
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One Line Description
Textiles have been known to us throughout human history and played a vital role in the lives and traditions of people. Clothing was made by using different materials and methods from natural fibers. There are different varieties of textiles, out of which certain traditional textiles, archaeological findings, or fragments are of cultural, historical, and sentimental value such as tapestries, embroideries, flags, shawls, etc. These kinds of textiles, due to their historical use and environmental factors, require special attention to guarantee their long-term stability. Textile conservation is a complex, challenging, and multi-faceted discipline and it is one of the most versatile branches of conservation.

Audience
It will serve as an educational asset and tool for researchers, art scholars, archaeologists, museum curators, and those who are interested in the field of traditional or historic textile collections.

Description
Volume II of the Handbook of Museum Textiles provides precise instruction for conservation techniques to preserve the textile heritage more scientifically and technologically. Additionally, the book covers the most modern techniques used to characterize archaeological textiles and dyes. Progress and innovation in nanotechnology-based interventions in museum textiles are emphasized. Chapters cover the general introduction to biological damage caused by physical and chemical agents and their prevention methods. Information on microscopy and characterization of historical textiles, ancient dyes, and prints is highlighted. Several aspects of assessment of degradation, repair, and stabilization of antique textiles are presented in depth. Experimental research methods for diagnosis and scientific study of fibers and natural dyes using LC-MS and UV-VIS are described. Practical knowledge based on analysis and visualization of historical textiles for the needs of museum conservation, exhibition, digital technology, and virtual museums is addressed as well.

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Author / Editor Details
Seiko Jose is a scientist at the School of Chemical Sciences, Mahatma Gandhi University, Kottayam, India, and specializes in textile chemistry. He has more than 16 years of experience in textiles of which 7 years in the industry and 9 years in research. He has extensive experience in cotton, silk, and linen processing industries as well as natural and synthetic dyes. Since 2013, he has handled many natural fibers like wool, jute, pineapple leaf fiber, coir, ramie, etc. He contributed to more than 40 international peer-reviewed research papers and 11 book chapters.

Sabu Thomas, PhD, is the Vice-Chancellor of Mahathma Gandhi University, Kottayam, Kerala, India. He is a fellow of the Royal Society of Chemistry and has been ranked no.5 in India with regard to the number of publications. Prof. Thomas’s research group specializes in the areas of polymers, natural fiber, biocomposites, sorption and diffusion, interpenetrating polymer systems, recyclability and reuse of waste plastics and rubbers, elastomer crosslinking, dual porous nanocomposite scaffolds for tissue engineering, etc. He has published more than 1200 publications as well as over 150 books.

Pintu Pandit, PhD, is an assistant professor in the Textile Design Department at the National Institute of Fashion Technology under the Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India, Patna campus. He is a PhD (Tech.) and M.Tech. in Fibers and Textile Processing Technology from the Institute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai, India. He has published many research articles in SCI journals as well as edited 4 books with the Wiley-Scrivener imprint.

Ritu Pandey, PhD, is an assistant professor at Chandra Shekhar Azad University of Agriculture & Technology (CSAUAT) Kanpur, India She has 25 years of teaching experience. She has published more than 35 research papers in various national and international journals and her specialist area is in flax.

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Table of Contents
Preface
1. Damage Caused by Physical and Chemical Agents and Their Prevention
Suza Ahmed, Mohammad Mohsin Ul Hoque and Abubakar Siddik
1.1 Introduction
1.2 Characteristics of Typical Museum Textiles
1.3 Agents Causing Damage to Textile Materials
1.4 Deterioration of Textiles by Mechanical Stresses
1.4.1 Dimensional Changes
1.4.2 Change in Modulus
1.5 Deterioration of Textiles by Light and Radiation
1.5.1 Deterioration of Textiles by Photochemical Tendering
1.5.2 Fading of Dyes
1.5.3 Accelerated Photochemical Tendering
1.5.4 Light Ageing
1.6 Deterioration of Textiles by Humidity and Temperature
1.6.1 Temperature
1.6.2 Relative Humidity
1.6.3 Fluctuating Humidity and Temperature
1.7 Deterioration by Acid, Alkali, and Water
1.8 Deterioration of Textiles by Gaseous and Solid Contaminants
1.8.1 Gaseous Contaminants
1.8.2 Particulate Contaminants
1.9 Deterioration of Textiles to Biological Agents
1.9.1 Insects and Pests
1.9.2 Mold
1.9.3 Source of Biological Agents
1.10 Cases of Damages in Museum Textiles
1.11 Other Factors Influencing the Damages to Textiles
1.11.1 Alienation
1.11.2 Fire
1.11.3 Theft or Vandalism
1.12 Avoiding Damages
1.12.1 Temperature and Humidity
1.12.2 Avoiding Damages Caused by Light and UV Radiation
1.12.2.1 Measuring Light and UV Levels
1.12.3 Avoiding Damages Caused by Pest
1.12.4 Avoiding Damages Caused by Pollutants
1.12.5 Avoiding Environmental Damages
1.13 Conservation of Museum Textiles
1.13.1 Moth Management
1.13.2 Integrated Pest Management
1.13.2.1 Monitoring the Collections
1.13.2.2 Insect Trapping
1.13.2.3 Traditional Method
1.13.2.4 Hygienic Control of Pests
1.13.2.5 Pest-Proofing
1.13.3 Laser Cleaning of Tarnished Silver and Copper Threads in Museum Textiles
1.14 Conclusion
References
2. Biological Damage to Textiles and Prevention Methods
Kurmo Konsa, Theodora Kormpaki and Janika Turu
2.1 Introduction
2.2 Biodeterioration of Textiles Caused by Microorganisms (Bacteria, Fungi)
2.2.1 Most Common Species of Microorganisms in Textile Collections
2.2.2 Deterioration Caused by Microorganisms
2.2.3 Methods of Examination and Identification of Microorganisms
2.3 Biodeterioration of Textiles Caused by Insects
2.3.1 Most Common Species of Insects in Textile Collections
2.3.2 Deterioration Caused by Insects
2.3.3 Monitoring and Identification of Insects in Textile Collections
2.4 The Control of Biodeterioration of Textiles
2.4.1 Prevention Methods
2.4.1.1 Construction Aspects
2.4.1.2 Storage Conditions
2.4.1.3 Storage
2.4.1.4 Room Monitoring
2.4.2 Remediation Methods
2.4.2.1 Low Temperatures (Freezing)
2.4.2.2 High Temperatures (Heating)
2.4.2.3 Gamma Radiation
2.4.2.4 Modified Atmospheres
2.4.2.5 Mechanical Removal
2.4.3 Chemical Control Methods
2.4.4 New Methods for the Control of Biodeterioration of Textiles
2.5 Biological and Chemical Risk Factors in the Preservation and Conservation of Textiles
2.6 Conclusion
References
3. Microscopy of Historical Textiles
Hana Lukesova
3.1 Introduction
3.2 Optical Microscopy
3.2.1 Stereomicroscopes
3.2.1.1 Textile Techniques
3.2.1.2 Finishing
3.2.1.3 Repairs and Changes
3.2.1.4 Reflected Light Microscopy
3.2.2 Transmitted White Light and Polarized Light Microscopy
3.2.2.1 Transmitted White Light Microscopy
3.2.2.2 Polarized Light Microscopy
3.2.2.3 Fiber Identification
3.2.2.4 Finishing
3.2.2.5 Microbiological Attack
3.2.3 Digital Microscopy
3.3 Electron Microscopy
3.3.1 Scanning Electron Microscopy
3.3.1.1 Sample Preparation
3.3.1.2 Fiber Identification of Animal Hairs
3.3.1.3 Finishing
3.3.1.4 Dyeing
3.3.1.5 Quality
3.3.1.6 Degradation
3.3.2 Transmission Electron Microscopy
3.3.2.1 Sample Preparation
3.4 Conclusion
References
4. Computational Structural Analysis
Rana Al Ali, Mohamed Dallel, Boumediene Nedjar and Elhem Ghorbel
4.1 Introduction
4.2 Mechanical Modeling of Textile
4.2.1 Microscopic Modeling of Textiles
4.2.2 Mesoscoping Modeling of Textiles
4.2.3 Macroscopic Modeling of Textiles
4.3 Historical Textiles’ Modeling
4.3.1 Creep in Structural Analysis
4.3.2 Finite Element Method
4.3.3 The Rheological Model
4.3.3.1 Kinematic Associated with Elastic Behavior
4.3.3.2 Constitutive Equations Associated to the Elastoplastic Branch [I]
4.3.3.3 Constitutive Equations Associated to the Viscoelastic Branch [II]
4.4 Application to Tapestries: Case Studies
4.4.1 Application 1: The Importance of Considering the Orthotropy
4.4.2 Application 2: Effect of Hanging System
4.4.3 Application 3: Presence of Tears and Slits
4.5 Conclusion
Acknowledgement
References
5. Characterization of Ancient Dyes and Prints
Hannah Dewey, Meghan Lord and Januka Budhathoki-Uprety
5.1 Introduction
5.2 Characterization Methods
5.2.1 Thin Layer Chromatography
5.2.2 High-Performance Liquid Chromatography
5.2.2.1 Dyestuff Analysis
5.2.2.2 Sample Preparation and Extraction Methods
5.2.2.3 Detectors
5.2.2.4 Limitations
5.2.3 Raman Spectroscopy
5.2.4 Infrared Spectroscopy
5.2.5 Fluorescence Spectroscopy
5.2.6 Fiber Optic Reflectance Spectroscopy
5.2.7 Mass Spectrometry
5.3 Printing Techniques
5.4 Conclusion
References
6. State-of-the-Art Characterization Methods for Historic Textiles
Reza Assefi Pour, Mazeyar Parvinzadeh Gashti and Jinxin He
6.1 Introduction
6.2 Dating of Textiles
6.2.1 Radiocarbon Dating
6.2.1.1 Advantages and Limitations of Radiocarbon Dating
6.2.1.2 Radiocarbon Dating Measurements
6.2.1.3 The AMS Method of Radiocarbon Dating
6.2.2 Micromechanical Method for Textiles Dating
6.3 Molecular Analysis
6.3.1 DNA Analysis
6.3.2 Amino Acid Composition
6.4 Proteomics
6.4.1 Principle and Evaluation Process of Historic Textiles
6.4.2 Why Proteomics Is Preferred
6.5 Isotopic Tracing
6.5.1 The Strontium Isotope Tracing System
6.5.2 Benefits of Sr Isotope Tracing
6.5.3 Limitations of Sr Isotope Tracing
6.6 Thermal Analysis
6.7 Optical Measurement Tests
6.8 Analytical Methods for Dye Analysis
6.8.1 Mass Spectrometry
6.8.2 Chromatography
6.8.3 Electrophoresis
6.8.4 Microextraction
6.9 Conclusion
References
7. Nondestructive Testing of Historic Textiles
Anna Klisińska-Kopacz
7.1 Introduction
7.2 Sampling
7.3 Analytical Investigation Techniques Using X-Rays
7.3.1 X-Ray Radiography
7.3.2 X-Ray Fluorescence
7.3.3 Scanning Electron Microscopy with X-Ray Microanalysis
7.3.4 X-Ray Diffraction
7.4 Vibrational Spectroscopy
7.4.1 Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy
7.4.2 Raman Spectroscopy and Surface-Enhanced Raman Spectroscopy
7.5 Case Studies
7.5.1 17th Century Painted Silk Banner
7.5.2 16th Century Carpet
References
8. NDT of Historic Textiles—Brief on Theory and Applications
Anuradha Sankaran, Namitha Nandanan Nedumpillil and Seiko Jose
8.1 Introduction
8.2 X-Ray Fluorescence Spectroscopy
8.3 Atomic Force Microscopy
8.4 Raman Spectroscopy
8.5 Computed Tomography
8.6 X-Ray Photoelectron Spectroscopy
8.7 Optical Microscope
8.8 Scanning Electron Microscope and Energy Dispersive X-Ray Spectrometer
8.9 Carbon Dating
8.10 X-Ray Diffraction
8.11 Ultraviolet-Visible Spectroscopy
8.12 Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy
8.13 Conclusion
References
9. Non-Invasive Analytical Techniques for the Study of Dyes and Pigments in Historical Textiles
Lavinia de Ferri and Fabrizio Andriulo
9.1 Introduction
9.2 Photographic Methods
9.2.1 Infrared Reflectography (IRR)
9.2.2 Visible-Induced Visible Luminescence/Fluorescence
9.2.3 UV-Fluorescence (or UV-Luminescence) (UVF-UVL) and UV Reflectance (UVR)
9.2.4 False-Color Imaging
9.2.5 Multispectral/Hyperspectral Imaging
9.3 Colorimetry
9.4 Reflectance Spectroscopy
9.5 Fluorimetry
9.6 Diffuse Reflectance Infrared Fourier-Transform (DRIFT) Spectroscopy
9.7 Matrix-Transfer Surface-Enhanced Raman Scattering (SERS)
References
10. Micro-Invasive Analytical Techniques for the Study of Dyes and Pigments
in Historical Textiles
Lavinia de Ferri and Fabrizio Andriulo
10.1 Introduction
10.2 Spectroscopic Methods
10.2.1 Elemental Techniques: Energy Dispersive System/Energy Dispersive X-Ray (EDS/EDX) and Laser Induced Breakdown Spectroscopy (LIBS)
10.2.2 Ultraviolet-Visible (UV-VIS)
10.2.3 Surface-Enhanced Raman Scattering (SERS) and Fourier Transform (FT)-Raman
10.2.4 Fourier Transform-Infrared (FT-IR) Spectroscopy
10.3 Chromatographic Methods
10.3.1 Paper and Thin Layer Chromatography (PC and TLC)
10.3.2 High-Pressure/-Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC)
10.3.3 Ultra High-Performance Liquid Chromatography (UHPLC)
10.3.4 Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry
10.4 Other Techniques
References
11. Destructive Analytical Techniques for the Analysis of Historic Textiles
Namitha Nandanan Nedumpillil, Anuradha Sankaran, Seiko Jose, Sneha George and Sabu Thomas
11.1 Introduction
11.2 NMR Spectroscopy
11.3 Mass Spectrometry
11.4 Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry (SIMS)
11.5 Inductively Coupled Plasma Mass Spectroscopy
11.6 Laser Ablation Inductively Coupled Plasma Time of Flight Mass Spectrometry (LA-ICP-TOF-MS)
11.7 Matrix-Assisted Laser Desorption Ionization-Time of Flight (MALDI-TOF)
11.8 Transmission Electron Microscope
11.9 Thermo Gravimetric Analysis
11.10 DNA Analysis
11.11 Amino Acid Composition
11.12 Peptide Mass Fingerprinting
11.13 Chromatographic Techniques
11.14 High-Performance Liquid Chromatography
11.15 Thin Layer Chromatography
11.16 Gas Chromatography
11.17 Inductively Coupled Plasma-Optical Emission Spectroscopy
11.18 Conclusions
References
12. Assessment of Degradation, Repair, and Stabilization of Antique Textiles
with a Focus on Tapestries
Rosa Costantini
12.1 Introduction
12.2 Mechanical Damage Mechanisms in Historic Tapestries
12.3 Conserving Tapestries
12.3.1 Current Methods for Structural Support and Image Reintegration
12.3.2 Current Display Methods
12.4 Evaluating the Mechanical Behavior of Tapestries: Invasive Techniques
12.4.1 Evaluating the Efficacy of Conservation Strategies Using Tensile Testing
12.5 Evaluating the Mechanical Behavior of Tapestries: Noninvasive Techniques
12.5.1 Evaluating the Efficacy of Conservation Strategies Using DIC
12.6 Conclusions
References
13. Antique Tapestries and Carpets: A Multidisciplinary Experimental Research
Method for Their Diagnosis and Dating
Gianpaolo Rosati, Carol Monticelli, Matteo Tommasini, Chiara Zanchi and Alessandra Zanelli
13.1 Introduction
13.2 Antiques Textile Surfaces, Means of Cultural Testimony and Way of Improving the Comfort in Historical Buildings
13.3 Recent Research and Case Studies on Ancient Carpets
13.4 Recent Research and Case Studies on Ancient Tapestries
13.5 IR Spectroscopy to the Molecular Wool Characterization: Implications for Dating Purposes
13.6 Conclusion
Acknowledgment
References
14. Scientific Study of Fibers and Natural Dyes Used in 19th Century Prayer
Carpet From Jiwajirao Scindia Museum Gwalior, Using LC-MS and UV-VIS
Md. Ali Nasir, Satish. C. Pandey and M.V. Nair
14.1 Introduction
14.2 Materials and Methods
14.2.1 Preparation of Samples
14.2.2 Instrumentation
14.3 Extraction of Dyes
14.3.1 Liquid Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry (LC-MS)
14.3.2 UV Spectroscopic Measurements
14.4 Result and Discussion
14.4.1 Dyes Identified in 19th Century Carpet from Jiwaji Scindia Museum, Gwalior Sample
14.4.2 Red Dye
14.4.3 UV-Visible Spectroscopy
14.4.4 Green Dye
14.4.5 UV-Visible Spectroscopy
14.4.6 Yellow Dye
14.4.7 Black Dye
14.4.8 UV-Visible Spectroscopy
14.5 Future Scope and Studies
14.6 Conclusion
Acknowledgment
References
15. Analysis and Visualization of Historical Textiles for the Needs of Museum
Conservation and Exhibition
Maria Cybulska
15.1 Introduction
15.2 Deterioration of Textiles
15.3 Methods of Analysis of Historical Textiles
15.4 Analysis of Fibers
15.5 Analysis of Threads
15.6 Analysis of Woven and Other Textile Objects
15.7 Identification of Dyes and Color Analysis
15.8 Visualization and Virtual Reconstruction of Textiles
15.9 Conclusion
References
16. Conservation of a Coptic Tapestry Fragment from Red Monastery Excavation
Neven Fahim
16.1 Introduction
16.2 Documentation and Condition
16.2.1 Description of Archaeological Object
16.2.2 The Analytical Method and Technical Study
16.2.3 Dating of the Object
16.2.4 State of Deterioration
16.3 Testing and Analysis
16.3.1 Morphological Study
16.3.2 Scanning Electron Microscope
16.3.3 Fourier Transform Infrared Analysis
16.3.4 Analysis of Color Values
16.4 Results and Discussion
16.4.1 Stereo Microscope
16.4.2 Scanning Electron Microscope
16.4.3 FTIR Analysis
16.4.4 Colorimetric Measurements
16.5 Treatment Methodology
16.5.1 Humidification Process
16.5.2 Testing the Acidity
16.5.3 Cleaning Process
16.5.3.1 Chemical Cleaning
16.5.3.2 Wet Cleaning
16.5.4 Preparation of Foam and Textile Support
16.5.5 Permanent Fixation
16.6 Conclusion
Acknowledgment
References
17. Synthetic Coatings in Fashion Collections: Identification and Preservation Issues
S. França de Sá, K. Verkens, A. Rizzo, G. Petersen, S. Scaturro, I. Correia and M. Carita
17.1 Introduction
17.2 Conservation Challenges in Fashion Museum Collections Holding Polyurethane and Plasticised Poly(Vinyl Chloride) Coatings
17.2.1 The Entrance of TPU and p-PVC in Fashion
17.2.2 Degradation of TPU and p-PVC
17.2.3 Issues and Recommendations for the Preservation of TPU and p-PVC Coatings in Museum Collections
17.2.4 Case Studies From MUDE, MET and MoMu Collections
17.2.4.1 TPU Coatings
17.2.4.2 p-PVC Coatings
17.2.4.3 Mixed Compositions
17.2.4.4 Main Considerations
17.3 Experimental
17.3.1 Met Museum
17.4 Damage Atlas
17.5 Conclusions
17.6 Future Research
References
18. Nanotechnology-Based Interventions in Museum Textiles
Ankita Shroff, Anjali Karolia and Patricia I. Dolez
18.1 Introduction
18.2 Applications of Nanotechnology in Museum Textiles
18.2.1 Diagnosis of Museum Textiles Using Nano-Enabled Technologies
18.2.2 Cleaning of Museum Textiles Using Nano-Enabled Technologies
18.2.3 Consolidation and Protection of Museum Textiles Using Nano-Enabled Technologies
18.3 Benefits and Opportunities for Future Developments in Preservative and Conservative Practices
18.4 Conclusion
Acknowledgments
References
19. Digital Technologies and Virtual Museums—Novel Approach
Kanika Sachdeva and Harshita Chaudhary
19.1 Introduction
19.2 History of Digital Technologies in Museums
19.3 Why Do We Need Digital Technologies in Museums?
19.4 Digital Technologies—Tools and Techniques
19.4.1 Multimedia Materials
19.4.2 The World Wide Web
19.4.3 Computer-Mediated Conferencing
19.4.4 Presentation Technologies
19.4.5 Simulations and Models
19.4.6 Microworlds and Games
19.4.7 Streaming Digital Audio and Video
19.4.8 Visualization-Based Utilities
19.5 Applications of Digital Technologies in the Museum
19.5.1 Offline Data Banks Like CD-ROMS
19.5.2 Websites
19.5.3 Online Databases (National Digital Repository for Museums of India)
19.5.4 Virtual Museums
19.5.5 Interactive Exhibition Resources/Fusion Exhibitions (Sardar Patel Exhibition)
19.5.6 Google Arts and Culture App
19.5.7 Roboguides
19.5.8 BYOD in Museums
19.6 Pros and Cons of Digital Technologies as Compared to Traditional Exhibitions
19.6.1 Pros
19.6.2 Cons
19.7 Conclusion
References
Index

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